Ingredient guide
The 15 most used skincare ingredients
Ingredient lists on serums and creams can be confusing. Here we explain in plain language what the most common actives do, at what strength they are used and what they should not be combined with.
- Niacinamide Vitamin B3. A versatile, well-tolerated ingredient for pores, oil balance, dark spots and the skin barrier. Read →
- Hyaluronic acid A moisture magnet that binds water. Suits every skin type; a basic ingredient for hydration and plumpness. Read →
- Retinol A vitamin A derivative and one of the most researched anti-ageing actives for lines, texture, spots and acne. Read →
- Vitamin C A powerful antioxidant and the star of the morning routine for glow, dark spots and sun-related damage. Read →
- Salicylic acid (BHA) An oil-soluble acid that clears inside pores; the first choice for blackheads and breakout-prone skin. Read →
- Glycolic acid (AHA) The smallest AHA. Removes dead cells; effective for dullness, rough texture and sun spots. Read →
- Azelaic acid An acid that targets acne, rosacea redness and dark spots at once, well tolerated even by sensitive skin. Read →
- Ceramides The mortar of the skin barrier. Repair the barrier in dry, sensitive skin and skin irritated by actives. Read →
- Panthenol (B5) Provitamin B5. Hydrates, soothes and helps irritated skin recover. Read →
- Centella asiatica (cica) The soothing star of Korean skincare. A plant ingredient for redness, sensitivity and barrier support. Read →
- Peptides Short chains of amino acids. Non-irritating anti-ageing support for firmness and fine lines. Read →
- Bakuchiol Known as a plant-based alternative to retinol; an anti-ageing ingredient that irritates less. Read →
- Alpha arbutin A brightening ingredient that slows melanin production to fade sun spots and uneven tone. Read →
- Tranexamic acid A newer brightening ingredient attracting interest for stubborn spots and melasma; well tolerated. Read →
- Urea Part of skin's own moisturising factor. Hydrates and softens dry, flaky and thickened skin. Read →
Where to start when choosing an active
Pick one goal first: breakouts, dark spots, dryness, sensitivity or fine lines. One or two strong actives per goal are enough; starting many at once irritates the skin and makes it hard to tell what is actually working.
Patch test a new product for a few days behind the ear or under the jaw, then start with two or three evenings a week and increase slowly. Finishing your morning routine with sunscreen directly affects your results, especially when you use acids and retinoids.
Which ingredients should not be used together?
Most problems come from layering strong actives on the same evening. Use retinol and AHA/BHA acids on different nights rather than together; vitamin C works best in the morning and retinol at night. The idea that niacinamide and vitamin C cannot be combined is an old myth; in today's formulas they can be used together.
Hydrating and soothing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, panthenol and centella go with almost every active and balance the drying effect of stronger ones.
This page is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or take regular medication, talk to a dermatologist before starting a new active ingredient.
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