Ingredients
What do peptides do for skin?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. In skincare they are low-irritation ingredients used to support collagen, firmness and fine lines.
At a glance
- Best for
- Fine lines and loss of firmness, sensitive skin that can't tolerate retinol
- Typical strength
- Effective at very low levels depending on the peptide (from ppm to a few percent)
- When
- Morning and/or evening, at the serum step
- Pairs well with
- Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, retinol (in a separate layer), sunscreen
- Caution
- Better not to use copper peptides at the same time as strong acids and pure vitamin C
What are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of two to fifty amino acids. Cosmetic peptides are grouped by what they do: signal peptides that tell skin to make collagen (for example palmitoyl pentapeptide-4), carrier peptides that deliver minerals such as copper (copper tripeptide-1) and peptides that aim to soften signals to expression muscles (acetyl hexapeptide-8, Argireline).
Benefits for skin
Signal peptides aim to support the skin's collagen and elastin production; some studies report improvement in fine lines and firmness with regular use. Copper peptides are thought to support repair. Their biggest advantage is that they irritate far less than retinoids. However, the evidence is not as strong as for retinoids and results depend heavily on the formula.
How to use them
Apply a peptide serum to clean skin, then moisturise. They can be used morning and evening. If you want to combine them with retinol, apply retinol first in the evening and a peptide moisturiser on top, or move the peptide to the morning. Allow at least 8–12 weeks of regular use to see an effect.
Things to watch out for
Peptides are generally very well tolerated. Low-pH strong acids can break down some peptides, so use them at different times rather than together. Using copper peptides at the same time as pure L-ascorbic acid is not recommended. Data on use in pregnancy is limited; ask your doctor.
Frequently asked questions
Peptides or retinol?
Retinol is better researched and usually stronger, but it can irritate. For sensitive skin that can't tolerate retinol, peptides are a gentle alternative or complement.
Does Argireline work like Botox?
No. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 aims to slightly soften expression lines but does not come close to the effect of injected botulinum toxin.
At what age should you use a peptide serum?
There is no age limit. People usually add them when loss of firmness and fine lines start to appear, often in their thirties.
This page is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or take regular medication, talk to a dermatologist before starting a new active ingredient.
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