Ingredients
What is azelaic acid and what does it do?
Azelaic acid occurs naturally in grains and targets acne, redness and dark spots together. It is one of the few strong actives that sensitive skin can also use.
At a glance
- Best for
- Acne-prone skin, rosacea redness, post-acne and sun spots, sensitive skin
- Typical strength
- Usually up to 10% in cosmetics; 15–20% forms are medicines in most countries
- When
- Morning and/or evening; once a day at first
- Pairs well with
- Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sunscreen
- Caution
- Strong acids and retinol at the same time when starting; brief tingling in the first days is normal
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid found naturally in wheat, barley and rye and also produced by yeasts living on skin. Cosmetics use a lab-made form. In many countries higher-strength gels and creams are used as medicines to treat acne and rosacea.
Benefits for skin
Azelaic acid reduces acne-causing bacteria, prevents pores from clogging and calms inflammation. It also restrains overactive pigment cells, helping dark marks left by breakouts and other spots to fade. It has also been shown to help with the redness and bumps of rosacea.
How to use it
Apply a thin layer to clean skin, then moisturise. Use it once a day in the first week and move to twice a day as your skin adjusts. Results usually begin to show in 4–8 weeks.
If you use it in the morning, always apply sunscreen on top; in treating dark spots, sun protection is half the result.
Things to watch out for
In the first days you may notice mild tingling, itching or dryness, which usually fades within a few weeks. If you plan to combine it with retinol or strong acids, let your skin get used to azelaic acid first. Azelaic acid is considered one of the safest acne and pigmentation actives in pregnancy and breastfeeding; still, use it after talking to your doctor.
Frequently asked questions
Can you use azelaic acid with niacinamide?
Yes, they make a good pair. Niacinamide supports the barrier and calms redness while azelaic acid works on acne and dark spots.
Is azelaic acid good for rosacea?
Clinical studies show it helps with the redness and acne-like bumps of rosacea. Rosacea is a skin condition, so plan treatment with your dermatologist.
Can you use azelaic acid in pregnancy?
It is one of the actives most often recommended during pregnancy. Still, check every product you plan to use in pregnancy with your doctor.
This page is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or take regular medication, talk to a dermatologist before starting a new active ingredient.
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