Guide
How to choose a lip balm for dry lips
The skin on your lips is very thin and has no oil glands, so it cannot hold on to its own moisture and dries out quickly in cold, wind and sun. A good lip balm forms a protective layer over the lips. A poorly chosen one can feel refreshing while making dryness worse, so you end up reapplying more and more.
Why do lips dry out so quickly?
The top layer of the lips is much thinner than facial skin and has no oil glands. So lips lose water quickly and have little defence against their environment. Cold, dry air, wind, sun, mouth breathing, frequent lip licking and some medications (particularly isotretinoin, used to treat acne) make dryness much worse.
Licking your lips brings brief relief, but as saliva evaporates it dries them out even more, and the enzymes in saliva irritate the thin skin. The easiest way to break this cycle is to always carry a good lip balm.
What should a good lip balm contain?
- Occlusives: petrolatum, beeswax, shea butter, dimethicone; the protective layer that really reduces moisture loss
- Emollients: squalane, ceramides, plant oils; fill in cracks and smooth the lips
- Humectants: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol; but always together with an occlusive ingredient
- SPF 30 or higher if you are outdoors during the day: the lower lip in particular gets a lot of sun
- A fragrance-free, unflavoured formula for sensitive lips
Ingredients to avoid
Menthol, camphor, phenol and eucalyptus give lips a cooling, tingling feeling; it is perceived as "healing", but it is actually a sign of mild irritation. Cinnamon, mint and citrus flavours and strong fragrances can also cause allergic reactions, especially on sensitive lips.
Lanolin is an excellent protector but can cause allergies in some people. If your lips itch, burn or peel more after using a balm, check the ingredient list and switch to a fragrance-free product with a short list.
How to use it
Reapply lip balm whenever you need to during the day, especially after eating and drinking. When going out in the daytime, use a balm with SPF and reapply every two hours in the sun. A thick layer of petrolatum or a rich lip mask before bed reduces moisture loss until morning.
Avoid harsh scrubs on very dry, flaky lips. Applying balm, waiting a few minutes and then wiping very gently with a damp cotton cloth is enough to lift loose skin.
In winter and on nights when you breathe through your mouth, a humidifier in the bedroom also reduces lip and skin dryness.
When to see a doctor
- Cracking and flaking that has not improved after two or three weeks of good care
- Recurring red, cracked sores at the corners of the mouth
- A sore, hard spot or colour change on the lip that does not heal
- Swelling, itching and burning after using a particular product
FAQ
Is petrolatum (Vaseline) good for lips?
Yes. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum is one of the most effective occlusives for reducing moisture loss, and it is very unlikely to cause allergies. It works especially well as a thick layer at night.
Can you get addicted to lip balm?
The balm itself is not addictive. But products with menthol, camphor and flavourings can mildly irritate the lips and make you want to reapply more often. Switching to a fragrance-free, protective balm usually breaks this cycle.
Should I exfoliate my lips?
You do not need to do it regularly. When lips are flaky, applying balm and wiping gently with a damp cloth is enough instead of harsh sugar scrubs. Over-exfoliating makes lips even more sensitive.
Do lips need sun protection?
Yes. The lips, especially the lower lip, get a lot of sun and sun-related skin cancers can occur in this area. If you will spend a lot of time outdoors, use a lip balm with SPF 30 or higher and reapply regularly.
This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or take regular medication, talk to your dermatologist or pharmacist before starting a new product.
Which products suit you?
Answer a few questions and get a morning and evening routine for your skin type and goals, in three budget options.
Build my routine