Guide
How to choose a moisturizer, and does oily skin need one?
A moisturizer holds water in the outermost layer of the skin and supports the lipids that keep that layer together. A healthy skin barrier loses less water, reacts less to its environment and tolerates strong products such as serums better. That is why moisturizer is one of the three core products of a basic routine, whatever your skin type.
Where it fits in your routine
How does a moisturizer work?
A good moisturizer usually combines three types of ingredients. Humectants bind water: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea and panthenol belong to this group. Emollients fill the gaps between cells and smooth the skin: think squalane, plant oils and ceramides. Occlusives form a thin film on the skin that slows evaporation: petrolatum, dimethicone and shea butter are examples.
Dry skin benefits more from occlusive ingredients, while lighter, humectant-rich textures feel more comfortable on oily skin.
Does oily skin need moisturizer?
Yes. Oil and water are different things: skin can produce plenty of oil and still be dehydrated. Oily skin that uses drying acne treatments, salicylic acid or retinol is easily irritated without a moisturizer.
For oily skin, choose low-oil moisturizers with a gel or gel-cream texture labelled "non-comedogenic". A light moisturizer does not feel heavy and reduces irritation by supporting the barrier.
Choosing a texture for your skin type
- Oily and acne-prone skin: gel or gel-cream with niacinamide, glycerin or hyaluronic acid
- Combination skin: a light lotion or gel-cream; a richer cream on dry areas if needed
- Normal skin: a lotion or light cream
- Dry skin: a cream with ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, squalane or shea
- Very dry and flaky skin: a rich cream or balm; products with 5–10% urea
- Sensitive and eczema-prone skin: fragrance-free creams with a short ingredient list, ceramides and panthenol
What to look for when buying
- Both a humectant and a barrier-supporting ingredient: for example glycerin + ceramides
- No fragrance or essential oils for sensitive skin
- The words "non-comedogenic" for acne-prone skin (not a guarantee, but a good start)
- If you pick a moisturizer with SPF for the morning, remember you must apply enough of it for it to replace a separate sunscreen
- A fragrance-free formula that does not sting if you will also use it around the eyes
How to use it
Apply moisturizer after serum, while your skin is still slightly damp; this helps trap water in the skin. An amount between a hazelnut and a chickpea is usually enough for face and neck. In the morning, follow moisturizer with sunscreen; in the evening, moisturizer is the last step.
Switching to a richer cream in winter or in heated rooms and back to a lighter texture in summer is completely normal. Your skin's needs change with the seasons.
If your skin is very dry, applying a thin layer of petrolatum or a barrier ointment over your evening moisturizer, only on the dry areas (slugging), reduces water loss considerably. Do not do this on acne-prone skin.
Common mistakes
- Dropping moisturizer altogether because your skin is oily
- Applying heavily fragranced or active-rich creams to irritated skin
- Applying moisturizer to completely dry skin
- Treating a thin layer of SPF moisturizer as full sun protection
FAQ
What is the difference between a night cream and a day cream?
Day creams are usually lighter and some contain SPF. Night creams can be richer and may contain light-sensitive actives such as retinol. For most people, using the same moisturizer morning and night is perfectly fine.
Can moisturizer cause breakouts?
Heavy, greasy textures can cause problems on acne-prone skin. Light, gel-textured, "non-comedogenic" products are generally well tolerated; they even make acne treatment easier to stick with by reducing dryness.
Can I use a face oil instead of moisturizer?
Face oils are emollient and occlusive, but they contain no humectants to bind water. Adding a few drops of oil over your moisturizer works well for dry skin; using oil instead of moisturizer falls short for most skin types.
How long does a moisturizer take to work?
Relief starts right away. Barrier recovery, meaning a clear drop in dryness, flaking and sensitivity, usually takes two to four weeks of regular use.
This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, are pregnant or take regular medication, talk to your dermatologist or pharmacist before starting a new product.
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